Friday, 22 July 2016

Exclusive shirt with mock scarf tie and lightweight trousers for summer

At last we have some real sunshine and heat here in the South of England so with the windows of my sewing room open and the curtains billowing all around me, I've kept cool and welcomed hearing the birds singing outside.

So what have I made this week? Well I feel quite pleased with myself and feel I've come a long way on my sewing journey. From novice just three years ago I now have the confidence to use my basic sloper to design garments exactly as I want them to look.

The shirt I made last week [blogged at the bottom here] fitted well but I had some soft grey and light teal fabric that seemed to want something less structured yet retaining some of the classic shirt elements. I thought a pussy bow blouse might do it but I didn't want the fussiness of the bow. Then my latest copy of BurdaStyle magazine arrived and there was a superb design for a shirt in the Plus Fashion section that showed a scarf / tie looped through a fake knot at the front to simulate a sort of Windsor Knot. That was exactly the look I was after so I set about designing my new shirt with that in mind.

With hindsight I think it might have looked better if I'd placed it a bit lower but overall I am pleased with the result.

This top has bust and waist darts at the front and back waist darts but it wasn't meant to be totally fitted, I just wanted it to have some shape but retain the look of a shirt.
I added a small amount of fabric to the back fold and used this to form a pleat at the back yoke and kept the shirt tail hem. I quite like the look of the shirt tucked in with the tie hanging below waist level.





The cuffs have a placket and angled corners on both ends. I was thrilled to find the perfect buttons in my collection which I remember being on a suit my Mum had so I have the memory of her in this shirt too.

The trousers are made from a lightweight fabric that I bought in Nazare, Portugal earlier this year and it behaved beautifully. I did think that it might be too light and need lining but I think they work for a summer pair and would be too hot if lined.

They are mostly grey with a pink thread running through it which gives them a more feminine look. Despite feeling quite thin the fabric holds pressing well and although it has no stretch doesn't 'bag' with wear so will travel well and will definitely be packed for my next Portuguese trip in September.



I hope you like this outfit and are inspired to take design elements where you find them to make your own individual items.

Thank you for reading.

Sunday, 17 July 2016

More Jeans and a New Shirt

Once I finished my Tangerine Jeans I was motivated to use the fabulous turquoise fabric I bought when we passed through Vendôme in France earlier this year for another pair.

If I am happy with a completed garment I often want to dive straight in and make another similar item almost immediately which doesn't make a lot of sense really but there you go...


The fabric has some stretch and I knew would be perfect for jeans. This time I decided to make them more subtle and used a co-ordinated thread for the back pockets and top stitching instead of contrast. The top I am wearing in the photos was made a long time ago but the colours were a perfect match. I don't particularly like this top but I was still learning and experimenting when I made it. I don't think the peplum style is good on me and the sleeves aren't buttoned cuffs that I favour so don't pay it too much attention as it is the jeans that I am trying to show you at this time.

Next up is a 'V' neck shirt with collar and stand made from my SFD shirt kit body blueprint. The cuff detail doesn't show that well in the photos but I put a corner on upper buttonhole edge and left the under button side straight. I think I would cut both of next time to show the detail up more.

I was also pleased that having watched a Craftsy Class by Suzy Furrer on drafting sleeves and plackets, I picked up the comment that plackets should point exactly to the elbow and as you see I managed to achieve this.

The fabric is 100% cotton that I've had in my stash for some time and to be honest I can't remember where I got it which is a shame because I usually know where every piece is from and if I've bought it while we're away from home, wearing the garment always reminds me of the place.

The contrast fabric was also in my stash and that was part of some small pieces given to me by a friend who lives near Poole in Dorset. It matched perfectly and was too small to be used as anything other than trimming.

Please excuse the photo showing the tails which I should have given a final press before showing you but as it seems ages since I last blogged I was anxious to get writing.

As you see my lack of blogs is not because I haven't been sewing but more because I haven't been taking photos... Sorry.